Beauty Talk: Treat Dry and/or Dehydrated Skin: Face Oils

This post is a continuation of the series of posts on Dry and Dehydrated Skin. Make sure you read about the causes and how to treat dry and/or dehydrated skin.

Do not confuse face oils that are sold ready for use with essential oils which need to be diluted before application on the skin.

Face Oils can be especially beneficial for the dry and dehydrated skin as they can balance it fast and help to lock the moisture in. Oils have high penetration capabilities. They penetrate deep into the skin and deliver much needed nutrients, vitamins and antioxidants.
Anyone can benefit from a face oil including mixed and oily skin types. The trick is to choose the right oils but most importantly to apply it correctly. When I was researching for this post, I came across a couple application methods.

Damp Skin Method
Experts always just say – apply to damp skin. But when I tried it, my mixed skin felt uncomfortably oily.

Warm water and Wash Cloth Method
So I tried this one out. Here it is step-by-step:
1. Cleanse face, leave it damp
2. Put a few oil drops in your palm and mix with warm water
3. Apply and massage into the face/neck
4. Give it a couple minutes
5. Gently wipe face with damp washcloth
I was surprised with the results. It did get absorbed and my skin was not left unpleasantly oily.

Wet Hands Method
1. Cleanse face
2. Apply a couple oil drops on both sides of your face
3. Wet your clean hands with warm water
4. Massage oil into the face/neck
5. Give it a couple minutes to get soaked in before applying your moisturizer or makeup

If you are just beginning to use face oils, it can take you some time to learn what amount to apply. So several times you may end up with an uncomfortably oily face. That’s why perhaps the Damp Skin Method (see above) did not work for me- it was my first face oil application ever.

Here are some oils to consider:
 Black Currant Complexion Oil from Ole Henriksen (all skin types / rosacea): contains vitamin E, Apricot Kernel, rich in Gamma Linolenic Acids (type of omega-6 fatty acids). Described as “providing skin with environmental protection and resiliency”, “anti-inflammatory” and “protecting capillary walls from cold weather damage” *Recommended by a facialist Anastasia Achilleos in Elle Us Oct 2007
 Face Treatment Oil “Santal” from Clarins (dry, extra dry skin) contains Lavender, Hydrogenated Peanut, Hazelnut Oils. “Helps reduce appearance of slight reddening, nourishes skin, helps prevent moisture loss.” * Featured in Young, Germany Nov. 2007
 Almond Oil from Weleda (all skin types, sensitive skin). Almond oil is known for its ability to relief dry skin by helping it to rebuild the hydrolipidic barrier and promote moisture balance.
 Plante System Organic Cosmetics Exquisite Oil is “rich in phytosterols and polyphenols that regenerate and soothe the skin, and guarantees a long-lasting protection of the epidermis” Contains olive tree oil (Soothing, anti ageing) sea buckthorn oil (regenerating, anti-oxidant), green tea oil (antioxidant, redensifying), sesame oil (nourishing, soothing, protective). Certified by Ecocert and is paraben free, phenoxyethanol free. *Recommended by Eve, UK Feb. 2008
 Nadur Organics Radiant Face Rescue Serum (all skin types including oily) contains nourishing and revitalising blend of essential oils: Chilean Rosehip Seed, Hemp Seed, Sweet Almond and Jojoba plus essential oils of Indonesian Ylang Ylang, Italian Bergamot & Sicilian Mandarin. Promises “A super-concentrated, non-greasy formula” to revitalize, soften, brighten your skin. 98.5% organic - 100% natural. *Featured in Eve, UK Feb. 2008
 Niaouli Aromatic Care from Darphin (Combination to oily) contains Niaouli, Cypress and Lemon and Bitter Orange Oils. Helps to balance and protect oily/combination skin. Promises to “calm and refresh skin”.

By the way, do an allergy test before using an oil. If you are allergic to nuts, and this can be a very nasty allergy, make sure your facial oil does not contain any nut oils.

Read more:
- Dehydrated and Dry Skin: causes and symptoms
- How to choose

Cleansing Products for Winter

Moisturizer for Winter
- Post on general Winter Skin Care Tips
- More detailed “Skin Care in Winter” Article
- Click for more information on skin care products for winter.
- Feel like shopping? You can buy face oils and other skin care for winter online right away.

Beauty Buzz: Are you looking for a Solution?

You may need to look no more if you need a solution for sensitive, irritated skin prone to redness. Clinique has launched a new line – Redness Solution, specially developed for sensitive, reactive skin. Well, the name speaks for itself.

Let’s look closer at what products Redness Solution includes.

1. Redness Solution Soothing Cleanser sounds great as it promises to “melt away grime and makeup without irritating skin or disturbing the skin’s natural moisture balance”.** In addition it is described as having some exfoliating properties: “Smoothes with mild exfoliation”.*
2. Redness Solutions Daily Protective Base is described as a “skin protector and skin primer in one” Contains chemical free sunscreen SPF 15 and antioxidants. Sheer grin tint will help to correct skin’s redness.
3. Redness Solutions Daily Relief Cream is developed for persistent redness. “calms skins with Rosacea. Relieves visible redness, blotchiness” * Contains a “subtle green tint to disguise the appearance of redness”**
4. Redness Solutions Urgent Relief Cream developed for those who have occasional reactive redness trigged by cosmetics, food weather etc. “Visibly calms skin instantly” ** Suitable for highly reactive skin.*

I do need a solution, that is why am looking forward to trying out this line. What I like about Clinique's Redness Solutions is that it includes a sun screen product developed for sensitive skin. Sun protection is very important for sensitive skin but most manufacturers do not include in their sensitive skin lines products with SPF protection. I also like that there is a product for just occasional use and a product for treatment of a persistent condition.
I was glad to learn that Redness Solution Soothing Cleanser combines both actions: cleansing and lightly exfoliating. It is VERY hard to choose the right strength cleanser for a sensitive skin. And finding an exfoliating product that would not irritate sensitive skin is even a bigger challenge.
The only solution that seems to be missing from the line is the one for sensitive skin in the eye area. Or to be more precise two solutions: to remove make-up and to moisturize.

* Clinique www.clinique.com
** Eve UK February 2008: Eve Promotion

Related posts:

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive Skin: Triggers and Causes

Sensitive Skin: Soothing Ingredients

Sensitive Skin and Makeup

Beauty Review: Verite line by Estee Lauder

Read More:

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive Skin Care

Feel like shopping? You can buy sensitive skin products online.

Beauty Shopping: Concealer Hunt

I have been trying to find a quality concealer for quite some time. My goal is to conceal the under-eye shadows. Up till now mission looks impossible!

I am not expecting too much from a concealer: I just want it to conceal - NOT reveal. I don’t want it to accentuate lines under my eyes and form creases after I smile or laugh a couple time… I don’t want it to look like it is REALLY there…. Like you could really tell I have something to conceal… So I have been trying out some products for several weeks now and then… I have to admit, I can be very picky…


First, I tried out the famous and renowned concealer star by YSL. I was not happy with the way it looked like I did paint over my eye circles. Perhaps it was the wrong shade. I might give it another try since it seems to be so popular.


Next I moved to Bobby Brown. The sales girl offered me to test the product, sat me down and started applying a concealer with a special concealer brush. “Have to buy that one in addition.” - I thought to myself and inquired about the price of a brush. The concealing procedure was finished up with a touch of special powder that comes together with the concealing cream. I found it looked quite natural but I was hoping for a stronger concealing effect. I know… I know – I am a very hard to satisfy customer…

Next destination - L’Oreal counter. I love and trust the quality of L’Oreal’s products. However when I applied an under-eye concealer, I looked like I was quite desperate to conceal.


A couple more mid- and budget concealers later I arrived to a M.A.C counter in Jelmoli. Sales girl suggested a moisturizing concealer (Select Moisturecover), as she thought my skin around the eyes looked a bit dry. Tested and loved the results! No creases, looks natural, does conceal. Mission accomplished, I happily proceeded to pay. A had a bit of a teary feeling in the eyes. So at the cash register I decided to confirm that it was ophthalmologically tested and there was not risk of an allergy… was relieved to hear a positive answer. Off I went with my precious purchase looking forward to the future without under-eye circles. But my happiness did not last long. The teary feeling in the eyes became more and more uncomfortable, soon eyes felt quite irritated… I knew I had to take my treasure back – I was definitely sensitive to the product… sigh… and I came soooo close!

The lesson: It is the third time that I have problems with products that are applied around or right on the eye area. Need to try it first! Give it some time - then buy….

Next stop - Laura Mercier… Nars…

Beauty Talk: Treat Dehydrated and Dry Skin

photo by J.Star
This is a continuation of the topic Dehydrated and Dry Skin. Go to this post to read about symptoms, causes, explanation on how skin gets dehydrated.

In this post I look into what you can actually do to re-hydrate your skin and to help it keep the moisture in.

Get Moisture Back

Exclude(or Minimize) the Dehydrating External and Internal Factors:

Our smart bodies know how to keep themselves balanced and hydrated… Just help your body and do not undermine its work!

- keep up healthy water intake (1-2 liters a day)
- avoid dehydrating drinks: coffee and alcohol
- do not overindulge into saunas and baths which strip off lipids, make you sweat and stimulate water evaporation from the skin’s surface
- eliminate dry dehydrating air: when there is more water in your skin than in the air, water evaporates from the skin’s surface easier. Control your environment by using a humidifier
- stop using harsh skin care product such as deep pore cleansers, exfoliators, daily scrubs, acids, alcohol containing products etc. Read this post on how to select a mild cleanser.
- use the correct skin care products
- moisturize religiously

Put Moisture Back into You Skin!

If your skin is seriously dehydrated, you will need some extra skin care products to help it get back to normal. In addition to a daily moisturizer use an intensive moisturizing serum as a treatment for 1-2 months. This will help to kick-start the process of your skin’s re-hydration.

Here are some examples of SOS-hydration products you can consider:

- Thirst Quenching Hydra-Care Serum from Clarins: restores hydra-lipid barrier. I tried out a small sample: the serum has a very light liquid texture, feels nice on the skin but has quite a strong fragrance. It is marked non-comedogenic.
- Super-Aqua Serum (Optimum Hydration Revitalizer) from Guerlain: Promises to deeply hydrate the skin and provide moisture for 30 hours.
- Cell Culture Face Care Serum from SBT contains “Cell Culture Phase” mysterious combination of ingredients (not revealed on SBT website) that brings skin into balance and restores its health.

Note the above mentioned serums are not supposed to be used alone and have to be followed by a daily moisturizer.

Lock Moisture In!

There are a lot of products for dry/dehydrated skin on the market. I looked into some of them and tried a couple out. Here are examples of some products you can consider (to find out what emollient, occlusive, humectant means read this post):

Face Oils: Selected and applied correctly, those can be great for any skin type - not just the dry one. Facial oils not only lock in moisture but also act like serums: they can penetrate deeper into the skin and deliver much needed nutrients, vitamins, antioxidants etc. Tip: apply face oil to dampened skin. While dry skin types can apply face oil twice a day, other skin types may prefer to do it once as a night treatment. Mixed and oily skin types can benefit from balancing Lavender and Ylang-Ylang Oils. Dry types can try Almond and Jasmine Oils. Read a post on face oils.

Vichy Nutrilogie 2 is based on patented sphingo lipids. Sphingolipids are naturally produced in the skin and play a very important role in retaining moisture. Nutirlogie 2 also contains glycerin (humectant), shea butter (emollient), petrolatum (occlusive), beeswax (occlusive), macadamia seed (emollient and anti-anti-oxidant) and apricot kernel oils.

Cold Cream from Avene specially made for extremely dry skin and has good occlusive properties due to beeswax. Avene offers a complete “Cold” line for dry skin. * Recommended by Glamour Shopping, Germany Winter 2007, Amica Germany Jan. 2008

Weleda Iris Day Cream (all skin types). Intensive care cream. Described as regulating “natural moisture balance” and protecting skin from the aggressive environment. It contains a combination of emollient and occlusive ingredients: jojoba oil (emollient), beeswax, glycerin, shea butter, cocoa butter (emollient), extract from iris roots etc. My Experience: Even though it is marked “all skin types” it is definitely too occlusive for my mixed skin.

Olive Oil Line from Serious Skin Care. Formulated for dry and dehydrated skin as well as seasonally dry skin. Contains first pressed olive oil and olive leaf extracts. Serious Skin Care promises it won’t feel too heavy and won’t clog your pores. Olive oil contains lipids which are very similar to our skin’s natural lipids. They effectively coat the skin to protect it from loss of moisture.

Aveeno Skin Relief Moisturizing Cream formulated for extremely dry skin. According to Aveeno, it is clinically proven to moisturize for 24 hours. Contains oatmeal, cocoa and shea butter.

Sisley’s Hydra Flash, Formule Intensive (All Skin Types) contains natural plant extracts (Rice, Sesame) and essential oils (Marjoram, Rosewood). Sisley promises enhanced cell cohesion and encouraged "moisture binding in the outer skin layers" My Experience: The cream feels very rich. I was afraid that it will break out my mixed skin but it did not. However I think it will be a bit too much for oily skin. I liked the product: my skin felt comfortably moisturized. But I didn't see any miraculouse changes like "velvety appearance" and smoothness. Perhaps I have not used it long enough. Note: It is on the pricey side.

Dermalogica Barrier Repair - "(waterless) moisturizer that melts gently into sensitized skin to soothe and help repair damage caused by environmental aggressions" Contains Oil of Evening Primrose and emollient silicones to strengthen the skin's natural lipid barrier. Shea Butter, Vitamin C and Bisabolol protect skin from dehydration, free radicals and inflammation.

Also take a look at Hydrophase XL from La Roche-Posay and Orlane Super-Moisturizing Line. The latter has a Super-Moisturizing Serum that, as Orlane explains, stimulates hyaluronic acid production and “is effective in transmitting water to the epidermis”. Check outSuper-Moisturizing Concentrate – formulated specially for “dehydrated skin or extreme climatic conditions”


Hydrate and Protect with Make-Up!

For an additional hydrating/ coating effect upgrade your foundation or powder to a richer texture or use a tinted moisturizer.

Check out:

Clinique’s Super Moisture Makeup

Lumineuse Tinted Moisturizer from Vichy

Olive Oil Line from Serious Skin Care has foundation and primer for very dry skin types

Orlane also offers a combination of makeup and skin care in their Super Moisturizing Line - Teint Absolu

Read more:


- Dehydrated and Dry Skin: causes and symptoms
- How to choose

Cleansing Products for Winter

Moisturizer for Winter
- Post on general Winter Skin Care Tips
- More detailed “Skin Care in Winter” Article
- Click for more information on skin care products for winter.
- Feel like shopping? You can buy skin care products for dry skin online right away.

Beauty Talk: Dehydrated and Dry Skin in Winter

Dehydrated skin refers to a condition when there is a lack moisture in the intercellular system of the skin. Skin can become especially susceptible to dehydration and severe dryness in winter due to the aggressive environmental factors. Dry skin types suffer the most from symptoms of dehydration.

Signs of Dehydrated Skin

Dehydrated skin can be recognized by the following signs:

feels tight and/or burning

gets often irritated

has lower ability to regenerate and heal

flakes

develops dry lines

If your symptoms are serious, you should consult a dermatologist.

What Causes Skin’s Dehydration

There are several reasons for skin’s dehydration and dryness. I won’t go into extreme detail: skin dryness is a huge separate topic. I would like to list several important causes which include external and internal factors.

External:
- use of harsh products on the skin
- saunas, hot baths
- harsh environment such as winds and cold temperatures
- dry air, hot weather
- pollution

Internal:
- illness
- medication
- indulging into dehydrating drinks: coffee and alcohol
- smoking

How Skin Gets Dehydrated

Let’s look in more details at how skin gets dehydrated. This way you can understand better, what to do to prevent or treat this condition. The top, most superficial skin’s layer, called horny layer, normally contains 15% of water; deeper layers contain up to 80% of water. Horny layer plays a key role in helping to contain moisture in the deeper layers of the skin. It is important for regulating natural (balanced) flow of moisture from the deeper skin’s layers to the upper ones and its evaporation from the skin’s surface.

To fulfill its vital protective functions horny layer needs lipids and sebum. Put simply, the latter coat the skin and create a water-proof barrier which also protects skin from bacteria, viruses, fungi etc. Harsh environment conditions and skin care products can strip skin of protective lipids/sebum or/and result in lower production of lipids and sebum. This leads to weakening of the protective skin’s barrier. Water can evaporate from the skin’s surface easier. When moisture level in horny layer gets down to 10%, you have a problem. Natural functions of the skin stop working efficiently and skin looses more and more water which results in its dehydration. It is important to treat this condition as soon as possible to avoid some permanent damage.

So as you can see, any skin type can experience dehydrated skin. “Oily” skin does not mean “moisturized” skin. Oil, which is sebum, helps to lock moisture in the skin.

Read Other Posts in the Series:
How to Get Moisture Back into Your Skin:
Exclude(or Minimize) the Dehydrating External and Internal Factors

Our smart bodies know how to keep themselves balanced and hydrated… Just help your body and do not undermine its work!

- keep up healthy water intake (1-2 liters a day)
- avoid dehydrating drinks: coffee and alcohol
- do not overindulge into saunas and baths which strip off lipids, make you sweat and stimulate water evaporation from the skin’s surface
Read more

Treat Dry and/or Dehydrated Skin: Facial Oils

Face Oils can be especially beneficial for the dry and dehydrated skin as they can balance it fast and help to lock the moisture in. Oils have high penetration capabilities. They penetrate deep into the skin and deliver much needed nutrients, vitamins and antioxidants.
Read further

Read more on Winter Skin Care

- How to choose

Cleansing Products for Winter

Moisturizer for Winter
- Post on general Winter Skin Care Tips
- More detailed “Skin Care in Winter” Article
- Click for more information on skin care products for winter.
- Feel like shopping? You can buy skin care products for dry skin online right away.

Best Beauty: Eve Reveals Best Beauty Buys 2008

UK beauty magazine EVE revealed a list of best beauty buys for 2008 in their February issue. The products have been selected by readers as well as a panel of judges which included Eve's experts as well as make-up artist, stylist, beauty experts from Harrods/Selfridges etc.
Curious? Well, I thought I will go through the list of the the best ones. For the 2nd, 3rd and 4th places in each category look up Eve's February Issue!


Eve’s Superhero of the year 2008 was selected to be SK-II Air Touch Foundation: “it leaves your skin looking as if it’s been professionally air-brushed.”

The product described at SK II website sounds really hi-tech. it comes with a build in “ionisation technology” for “a most precise and natural coverage”. - I am almost sold - … “no mess, caking or streaking” and it contains “miraculous ingredient, Pitera, and moisturising agents to provide skin caring benefits and hydrate skin”” – Pitera appears to be a liquid that is extracted during the yeast fermentation process when making sake -… the skin “appears smooth, translucent and radiant - much like a baby’s skin”

Here is a video I found on YoutTube explaining in detail how Air Touch Foundation works magic and how to apply it.

Wow! I’m sold!... only need to come to terms with the price tag… 85GBP = 166.294 USD = 112.570 EUR

Women’s Skin Care Hero: Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate
This product won a couple awards from beauty magazines already in 2007.
When used for 21 consequtive nights, promises to restore your skin and “boost your skin's natural ability to repair” the everyday damage


Women’s Fragrance Hero: Tom Ford Black Orchid

Hairstyling Hero: Redken Urban Experiment 7 Velvet Gelatine
“.. gives your hair bounce and shine without any stickiness” Zoe Irwin, Headmasters

Men’s Skin Care Hero: Liz Earle Naturally Active Cream and Hot Cloth Kit
“a really gentle shaving cream” Tom Dunmore, Stuff magazine

Men’s Fragrance Hero: Gucci Pour Homme II

Body Hero: Dior Plasticity Body Beautifying Micro-Peel
Combines exfoliating and anti-cellulite effects and promises “refined and smoothed” skin

Self-Tan Hero: Olay Total Effects 7X Touch of Sunshine
Allows gradual build up of color and leaves your skin feeling pleasantly moisturized.

Eye Hero (Make-Up): Guerlain Eye Shadow Duo and Liner
“Great Texture, colours and packaging” Mary Greenwell, make-up artist

Lip Hero (Make-Up): Givenchy Rouge Interdit Satin Lipstick

Face Hero Make-Up: SK-II Air Touch Foundation

Bath and Shower Hero: Olay Body Wash Plus Cream Ribbons
Comes with almond extract and “is so creamy and hydrating, you don’t need to use a body lotion afterwards” Joanne King, Urban Retreat, Harrods

Haircare Hero: Kerastase Ciment Thermique
Gives volume and shine to weakened hair.

Beauty Talk: Winter Skin Care Products - Choosing a Moisturizer for Winter

In the previous Beauty Talk I looked into choosing a cleanser for winter. The most important tip for choosing a cleanser is to go with a mild and gentle option ( read more). Now it is time to look into selecting the right moisturizing product for winter.

As mentioned in the winter skin care post, during the cold season -in those parts of the world where the weather does get cold- our skin changes and skin type can shift. Of course, it is not necessarily that your skin type will change. However if you start to experience one or several of the following symptoms: skin tightness, burning sensation, irritation, itchiness, redness, flaking skin, appearance of dry lines, break outs – it means your skin type must have changed and your skin care products do not satisfy your skin’s needs. Some of the symptoms like irritation, redness and itchiness can also mean your skin has developed sensitivity.

What exactly is happening to the skin and why does skin type shift in winter?

Our skin simply reacts to the changes in its environment. In winter our skin reacts to the following environment conditions:

Low/minus temperatures outdoors

cold/ freezing winds

dry/warm air indoors (due to the heating system)

sudden transitions between cold outdoors and warm/dry indoors

The above listed conditions cause (and are not limited to) the following reactions:

worse blood circulation in the skin

decrease in production of sebum and lipids

widened capillaries

Finally, the following skin symptoms set in:

dull, pale complexion

dehydration

dry lines

skin flaking

irritation, redness and sensitivity

cuperose = broken capillaries

*Worse blood circulation results in less nutrients and oxygen getting to our skin which, in its turn, causes all healthy skin processes to slow down and results in dull, pale, grey complexion.
* Sebum and lipids are both responsible for lubricating the skin, creating and keeping up the protective barrier on top of it. This protective barrier keeps it sheltered from the environmental aggressors and helps skin to keep moisture locked in the top skin layers.
** When skin’s protective barrier is weakened it is more susceptible to free radicals and irritants which results in its sensitivity.
** In addition, skin cannot keep its hydration in balance and starts to lose moisture. It sort of “evaporates” from the skin. This results in its dehydration, burning sensation, dry lines, flaking etc.

To prevent and treat the symptoms, you need to deal with the main reasons.


Skin Care Strategies for Winter

Improve nutrients intake and oxygen flow.
- keep to a healthy vitamin charged diet and take a quality vitamin supplement
- give yourself a face massage and at-home facials regularly (massage: every other day or even every day when applying your daily moisturizer, at-home facial: 1-2 times a week)
- exercise on a regular basis as it effectively stimulates blood circulation
- use skin care products which contain Vitamins and ingredients stimulating blood circulation: Ginseng, Manganese, Magnesium, multivitamins A, C, E etc.

Respond to skin’s needs as soon as possible by:
- improving hydration
- restoring and keeping balanced skin’s protective barrier
For your skin care routine to be effective, these two have to go together!

Let’s look into more details on how you can adjust your skin care products and regimen.

I have already mentioned such ingredients in skin care products as
humectants – attract moisture to the skin (e.g.: Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hylauronic Acid, Honey Extract)
emollients – soften, lubricate, moisturize skin. Emollients build protective film on top of the skin to prevent dehydration. (e.g.: Cyclomethicone, Glyceryl Stearates, Lanolin, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter)
occlusives are other important ingredient for winter moisturizers. They create a thicker and stronger film on skin’s surface to help protect it from the environment and to prevent loss of moisture. (Beeswax, Dimethicone, Mineral Oil, Paraffin, Petroleum)

Skin care products based on just humectants are not enough for winter skin care regimen. You need not only moisturize your skin but also help it to restore its protective barrier to keep this moisture. Normal, Mixed and Oily skin types should go with a combination of humectants and light emollients. Dry, Very Dry and Normal-to-Dry should go for products with occlusive ingredients in addition to humectants.

Winter Skin Care: Moisturizers

Quick Tip: When researching for this post I came across several recommendations for a quick winter skincare adjustment: just switch your night skin care product to the day one and vice versa. This recommendation is based on the fact that night products are richer than day ones. It actually can be a way out if you cannot invest into another set of products for the upcoming 3 months. But remember day products often have SPF which you do need in winter during the day as well. In addition, at night skin goes through a regeneration processes which will not benefit from additional unnecessary SPF chemicals on its surface. (good, if they do stay only on the surface!)

I looked up some moisturizing products that help to restore skin’s protective barrier and create a “controlled microclimate” for your skin.

So, here is what you can consider for winter skin care:

Avene “Hydrance Optimale” SPF 25 (Normal to Dry Skin Types) provides long-lasting hydration, sun protection and anti-oxidant protection (Vitamin E). *Recommended for winter season by In Style, Germany, Nov. 07

Repairwear Lift SPF 15 Firming Day Cream (Available for different skin types) has been quite recently launched by Clinique and is said to have a “climate control” feature. It helps skin to keep its moisture level balanced no matter what changes occur in terms of the temperature and humidity level in the environment. The ingredient that helps the skin to adapt is called Extensin. In addition the product contains creatine, olive extract , Vitamin E, wheat protein and some other ingredients to keep skin moisturized, smooth the lines and restore skin’s elasticity. * Recommended for winter by Glamour, Germany, Nov. 07.

Sisley’s All Day All Year (All Skin Types) is formulated so that you can wear it any season and it promises to keep your skin balanced and moisturized in the course of 8 hours guaranteed. This product also has sun protection properties. See a full review on All Day All Year.

Sisley’s Moisturizer with Cucumber (All Skin Types) increases moisture level in the skin by 30% in just half an hour. Builds a light protective film on skin’s surface. Contains Cucumber extract (rich in amino acids), mineral oil (occlusive), wheat protein. It described by Sisley as “Non-greasy”, but I have to say that I tried it out, and it is a bit too heavy for my medium oily T-zone. But I think it will be perfect for normal, dry and very dry skin types.

Nutrisource from Biotherm (Dry Skin) contains apricot kernel and macadamia oils which soften and condition the skin, jojoba oil which is an excellent emollient, ceramides (types of sphingolipids) which contribute to skin’s moisturization and keeping up its protective barrier. * Recommended by Young, Germany, January 2008.

Clarins’ HydraQuench Line: The range includes products for various skin types from Very Dry to Oily. Contains some amazing ingredients: Katafray extract to restore “cohesion of the corneal layer”, Inca Peanut oil to build up the protective hydrolipidic film and the super-humectant Hyaluronic acid to increase hydration etc. This line is also called “ MoistureQuenching” in the UK. But when I looked up ingredients, they seemed different (however, still very good to keep skin hydrated and prevent loss of moisture!). It looks like HydraQuench is a new line that came out first in the US .

Hydra Complete Multi-Level Moisture Cream from Estee Lauder. (available for Dry Skin Type as a cream and for Mixed, Oily Types as a Lotion). This product is developed to create “controlled environment--a virtual biosphere” for the skin. This way it not only hydrates and helps the skin to keep the moisture. The ingredients that help to achieve this effect are derivative of Vitamin B5, Brazilian Muru Muru butter (powerful emollient), Indian Kokum butter (emollient and Helps regenerate skin cells), Cactus Flower (effective antioxidant and emollient) etc.

Climate Control by Dermalogica creates controlled “microclimate” for your skin and helps to rebuild its balance. Contains Shea Butter and Silicones (emollient), Oat Extract and Vitamin E (antioxidants), Lavender Extract (balances and has antiseptic properties) etc. Also check out Dermalogica’s Barrier Repair. which has similar properties and sounds like a perfect choice for dehydrated sensitive skin.

Lancome Nutrix Royal (Dry and Very Dry Skin) especially developed to help rebuild the hydro-lipid barrier of dry skin, keep it balanced and moisturized. It contains vitamin CG and hazelnut extracts which promote synthesis of lipids, shea butter (emollient) and beeswax (occlusive).

A minus for most of the products mentioned above is that they do not have SPF protection. I really don’t understand when a day-time moisturizer does not provide sun protection. However, the fact is you will have to either use foundation with SPF or use sun protecting product on top of your day moisturizer. Each brand mentioned above has a choice of sun screens. If you are not spending too much time outside in the snowy weather SPF of 15-25 should be enough.

Coming soon: I will look into additional solutions for Dehydrated, Dry and Very Dry Skin Types and a separate post will be dedicated to skin care product for those suffering from an increased sensitivity… just like me…


Read more on Winter Skin Care
- Cleansing Products for Winter
- Post on general Winter Skin Care Tips
- More detailed “Skin Care in Winter” Article
- More on Skin Care Ingredients
- Click for more information on skin care products for winter.
- Feel like shopping? You can buy skin care products for winter online right away.

Beauty Shopping: Sales in Full Swing in Zurich

Time has arrived for seasonal sales in Switzerland! In Zurich sales have started already on the last days of December. However those who like sales deals know that right now it is just a warm-up: the prices are not yet “desperately” low.

I went to Bahnhofstrasse this Friday and checked out several “hot” sales spots for beauty product. Jelmoli has a nice selection of makeup on sale with a choice of foundations, powders, concealers, lipsticks, lipglosses and eyeshadows from MaxFacactor and Revlon, Versace and Bourjois …plus some skin care from Revlon and Payot. There are also some lazy sales going on at Origins, Clinique, Lancome, Shiseido counters … Coop is selling off a variety of Nivea, L’Oreal, MaxFactor, Sans Soucis makeup etc. Manor has a mix from the well-known L’Oreal, Maybelline, and MaxFactor brands in addition to inexpensive colourful bunch of unidentified origins (most probably made in China).

I think sales give you a great chance to try out something new: either some new brand or a new (wild!) colour/product. You don’t risk paying the full price in case it doesn’t work for you; very often this is the way you discover a great product or a new shade :-)

I’ve always wanted to try out Origins’ products! So I got Origins “Calm to your senses” set at a very nice 35-40% discount. The set includes a body peeling and a moisturizing body soufflé. Both products strongly smell of lavender and have a lot of essential oils among the ingredients. I also got a Bronzing Powder in Gold “Terra Mediterranea” from MaxFactor… I have never really embraced bronzing products, so for me it will be a chance to experiment. I guess I’ll make a good use of this bronzing powder at St.Valentine’s! ;-)

Beauty Talk: Winter Skin Care Products - Choosing a Cleasner

You cannot overestimate the importance of cleansing in daily skin care routine whatever season it is! Cleansing prepares your skin to benefit from the skin care product you will apply next: daily moisturizer, anti-oxidant protection, or anti-aging treatment etc. It is important to carefully select the right cleanser for the skin type. On the one hand, your cleansing solution should completely remove the build up of dirt and extra oil from your skin surface. On the other hand, it should not be too harsh and should not strip your skin off the protective hydro-lipid barrier and misbalance its pH level. Otherwise your skin will become more susceptible to environmental aggressors such as for example, bacteria and free-radicals. Those who are prone to break-outs make a big mistake by over-cleansing their skin, as they try to prevent clogged pores. But instead they actually damage skin’s protective barrier and trigger new break outs.

Anyway, speaking about cleansing solutions for winter... As already mentioned in Winter Skin Care post, your cleansing products should be milder for winter as skin tends to be drier (skin types tend to shift) and more sensitive during the cold season. There are two main aspects you need to understand when choosing a cleanser: “skin’s pH” level and “surfactant”.

The term skin’s pH level refers to its acid mantle – a protective thin film with slightly acidic pH on the surface of the skin that plays a vital role in formation and strength of skin’s barrier function. Healthy skin has pH of 4-6 which can vary from different areas on the body and change with age.

Surfactant is a substance that “dissolves” and removes dirt and oil from various surfaces including the skin. Surfactants vary in their strengths and harshness and are used in various cleansing products including washing detergents, household cleansers, face cleansers, shampoos etc. Mild surfactants used in skin care products belong to amphoteric/zwitterionic group. E.g.: Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB).

What to Avoid When Choosing Cleanser for Winter:

- Soap: Soap actually should not be used on the facial skin at any season. Classical soaps belong to aggressive surfactants and have a pH level of 9-10 which is much higher than our skin’s normal pH.

- Deep pore cleansers: can be very aggressive and contain stronger surfactants (such as sodium laureth sulfate), often contain exfoliating ingredients (e.g.: salicylic acid) and can be too harsh and stripping for the winter period. (the ingredients I mention here are contained in Pure Zone Washing Gel by L’Oreal)

- Alcohol containing cleanser: alcohol strips skin of natural oils and can cause skin dryness and sensitivity

- Cleansers containing lactic acid, salicylic acid, AHAs. These ingredients have exfoliating properties; save them for the upcoming spring/summer


Forms and Types of Cleansers to Consider for Winter:

1. Cleansers marked “mild”, “soft”, “non-stripping” and “pH neutral”. Such words on the package are quite a good hint when shopping for your winter cleanser!

2. Cleansers with moisturizing and protecting ingredients

Look for cleansers containing the following ingredients:
• emollients – moisturize and help to restore protective barrier on skin’s surface (e.g.: soybean oil, jojoba oil, lanolin etc.)
• humectants – attract moisture to the skin (e.g.: butylenes glycol, glycerin, mineral oil etc.)

Such cleansers come in various forms:
•Liquid Cleansers: gel (foaming or non-foaming), lotion, milk, cream.
•Foam/Mousse Cleansers

Cleansing milk and cream are the richest and most moisturizing cleansing solutions. If you have normal or mixed skin type and have been using cleansing mousse or gel all your life, do not afraid to switch over to a light cleansing milk for winter. That is what I did! And I was very afraid I will break out but it did not happen and my skin feels much happier.

Note emollient rich cleansers can be not well tolerated by oily skin types as emollients create a thin protective film on skin’s surface and may clog pores.

3. Cleansers based on syndets:
syndet = “synthetic detergent” is also often referred to as “synthetic surfactant” and considered to be a very mild surfactant acceptable for dry and sensitive skin types.

There is a big choice of mild cleansers for various skin types on the market. Here are several examples of products you might consider for your cleansing solution in winter:
- Water Comfort One-Step Cleanser from Clarins (for normal to dry skin). This cleanser enriched with coconut oil was featured by In Style (Apr 2007) among 100 Best Beauty Buys. The magazine quotes dermatologist Drore Eisen describing the cleanser: “cleanses and softens perfectly – it does not even feel like a cleanser”. Contains Coconut derivative (a gentle non-foaming cleansing agent), Isphagul and Provitamin B5 (soften and hydrate), Peach Essential Water, rich in glucose and fructose (softens and conditions)
- Deadermine Soft Mousse Cleanser is pH neutral and dermatologycally tested
- Cleansing Cream by Dr. Hauschka (dry and sensitive skin) is a very soft cleanser, contains Sweet almond for mild cleansing as well as soothing and calming effect and calendula extract to calm the skin.
- SBT Cleansing Gel (mixed, oily skin types). I tried out several samples of this product. Unfortunately SBT does not list ingredients on their samples so the only active ingredients of SBT cleansing gel I am aware of is Phosphate buffered Saline – which helps to maintain a constant pH. I really loved the product for its ability to clean mixed skin very thoroughly and not leave you with any uncomfortable feeling of dryness or tightness. This gel is non-foaming, has no fragrance and is extremely pleasant to use.
- Lancome's Confort line is for those who have dry skin. Mousse Confort Delicate Creamy Foaming Cleanser contains softening Almond Extract, soothing Honey and Yeast Extracts.
- Soft Clean Moisture Rich Foaming Cleanser from Estee Lauder (for dry skin) contains a number of humectants (glycerin, butylene glycol), emollients (glycol stearate), soothing and softening botanical extracts (Passion Flower, Edelweiss)
- Dove Cleansing products are known for being rich in moisturizing and emollient ingredients. This brand also offers mild cleansers based on syndets. You can read more about Dove facial cleansers here
- La Roche-Posay offers several lines that include mild cleansers appropriate for the winter season. For example, Toleriane Softening Foaming Gel (normal to combination skin) contains EDTA to neutralize water hardness, glycerin (the second ingredient on the list) to moisturize, is soap free and has pH 5.5. Another product that is specially formulated for dry skin is Hydraphase Hydrating Cleansing Milk is specially formulated “to preserve the hydrolipidic film” and contains moisturizing Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate which has a high ability to retain water.

Those who cannot live without toners in their daily skin care routine, should make sure it does not contain alcohol. As it has been already mentioned, alcohol is aggressive to the skin and can result in over-drying it. Here are some good examples of toners without alcohol:

- Verite Soothing Spray Toner and Silky Hydrating Lotion from Estee Lauder
- Cucumber Herbal Alcohol-Free Toner from Kiehl’s
- Cell Culture Face Cleansing Toner from SBT
- Toning Lotion from Clarins
- Clean and Active Tonic from Klapp

Read more:

- Winter Skin Care post
- Skin Care in Winter Article
- Skin Care Ingredients
- Click for more information on skin care products for winter.
- Feel like shopping? You can buy some of the mentioned products online right away.

Beauty SPA: Review on Swiss SPA Hotels in Lugano

What can be a better way for a Type A beauty addict to celebrate Christmas than a SPA weekend. I have the sweetest husband who surprised me with a SPA weekend in the Italian-Swiss Riviera for Christmas (and a year-long ELLE subscription in addition!). Being an American, my hubby has a natural talent for getting great deals and upgrades so we enjoyed a lot of add-ons to our reservation. Here is my review of the trip and on two Swiss SPA hotels.

On 24 December we headed to Lugano, the main city of The Tessin, the Italian speaking part of Switzerland. It was a bit of a discovery SPA trip as we stayed at two Lugano hotels with SPA facilities. Both hotels are located on a breathtakingly beautiful Lugano Lake.


First we checked out The Grand Hotel Eden located a 10 minute-walk from downtown Lugano and situated right on the Lugano Lake. The name speaks for itself! It was truly Grand. We got an upgrade to a room with a Lake View which was absolutely fascinating and hypnotizing. The view gives you a feeling of flying over the lake and you simply cannot take your eyes away. The room’s interior was nice but nothing too striking. I also have to mention another nice detail: we received a complimentary plate of traditional Christmas Swiss delights (sweets, cookies, traditional Italian cake Panettone and nuts) and a basket of fruit.

Normally room fee includes the use of hotel’s spa facilities such as a beautiful heated indoor swimming pool, sauna, steam bath and Jacuzzi. For an additional fee you can get various beauty treatments. Hotel staff were absolutely 5-star attentive and the atmosphere created at the spa was most relaxing and comfortable. Bottled water and green tea were always available for re-hydration, as well as healthy snacks such as almond nuts together with unhealthy but so right for Christmas traditional cookies. This was an amazing retreat from the cold and gloomy Zurich winter and stresses of everyday life. Got me totally relaxed! The only remark I have to make that when guest leave the spa area to go to their room they have to go through an unheated corridor which I found a bit uncomfortable.

To keep the wonderful relaxed feeling for the longest time possible we decided not to venture out into the cold Lugano night but to continue Xmas splurging and went to the hotel restaurant for dinner. The cuisine was more French than Italian. The quality of food and service were excellent. What made the experience even more special was the panoramic view over the lake with Lugano lights reflecting on its glassy surface.

Next morning after a rich Christmas buffet breakfast accompanied by a fairytale lake view and served in a somewhat chilly breakfast room we headed to our next destination - Swiss Diamond Hotel. Swiss Diamond is a truly luxury hotel located 15 minutes’ drive from Lugano near the medieval village of Marcote. We have already stayed at Swiss Diamond so we knew what to expect: everything from service to facilities is top-quality. We got an upgrade to a Lake View Room (hotel has 2 types of rooms: with mountain view – smaller and somewhat darker, and with lake view – much bigger, brighter and decorated just like a small palace). My husband booked an “I Prefer SPA” package for us so we had a massage included into our fee. After booking our massage treatments we headed to the SPA area that includes: Hammam, Steam Bath, Sauna, Jacuzzi and Swimming Pool. Drinking water and apples were available to keep you hydrated and for a vitamin-charged snack.


Massage was a very nice experience and took place at a separate Beauty Salon area decorated to create a feeling of a medieval Italian village. Rooms and corridors were made to look like Italian villas and had house numbers and names, painted pillars, statues, and pictures of relaxing Roman Gods. The salon had a relaxation area with a lake view. Nice meditation music was softly playing in the background. Swiss Diamond Beauty SPA Salon offers a lot of packages and beauty treatments: starting from facials and finishing with SPA and Beauty Week-Long offers.


In the evening we decided to go and see what was going on in Marcote at Christmas. That was a big mistake. We definitely underestimated the importance of Christmas day and family to Italians. Marcote was a ghost town and we were the only ones walking its streets in the dark at 7 p.m in the evening, our steps echoing from the medieval walls of the town and dying away in its winding streets.

Back to the hotel, we were faced with no other choice but another splurge on a 5-star restaurant dinner. Well, it’s Christmas night after all! And this way I can review the restaurant as well. Swiss Diamond Hotel Restaurant Panorama is located on the 6th floor and is open for winter period. In summer an open restaurant on the lake is available for guests. Swiss Diamond Hotel's Restaurant Panorama creates a feeling of a stage performance where you are a queen or a king having a dinner in your castle. Waiters are like actors moving gracefully around the tables, attending to any need even before it arises and magically refilling your glass of water so that you never notice. Cuisine is an unusual mix of Swiss, Italian and French. For example my husband’s dish included deer sirloin with blueberry sauce, accompanied by, baked pear with cranberries (I believe), mushrooms, spaetzli (traditional Swiss pasta-like garnish) and sauerkraut. Mine was a Mediterranean style Seafood Grill with various vegetables which I would recommend to any fan of seafood.

This was the best winter retreat ever and the greatest way to celebrate Christmas.

For more reviews on Lugano Hotels as well as other Swiss Hotels and destinations check out our website Europe Travel.

Beauty Review: Sisley Buff and Wash Gel with Botanical Extracts

Product Tag Line:

“Every morning, soft, perfectly clean skin, and a fresh, glowing complexion”

Product Profile in short:
(as described on Sisley Website)

“Rich in natural botanical extracts and essential oils, Buff and Wash Facial Gel cleanses skin, removing in a single step the surface dead cells and impurities which dull the complexion”

Promise:

“Wakes-up” the face and helps stimulate skin

with regular use skin appears clearer and more radiant

provides a pleasant sense of comfort and freshness

protects skin's natural pH balance and is ideal for daily use

What’s Inside:
Natural botanical extracts (Poppy)
Essential oils (Verbena and Lavender)

Close-up: How active are the active ingredients?

Water
Glycerin - a humectant, attracts water to epidermis
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (HVP) - vegetable protein that has been broken down into its component amino acids. HVP has conditionaing effect on the skin but is also widely used as flavor enhancer in food products
Silk Amino Acid – Derived from secretion of silkworm, has anti-oxidant and water-binding (moisturizing) properties
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil - polyethylene glycol naturally derived from castor oil. Can be used as a thickening agent as well as an emulsifier and surfactant
Polyethylene – these are the exfoliating particles
Citrus Medica Limonium Fruit Extract - Lemon Fruit Extract is an astringent, reduces irritation and oiliness, has toning, cell stimulating and anti-bacterial properties
Propylene Glycol – humectant and emulsification agent
Papaver Rhoeas Extract – Corn Poppy Extract, emollient and a soothing agent
Carbomer - emulsion stabilizer
Towards the end of the list we find Lavender Oil – balances skin, stimulates cellular growth and regeneration
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil - has antiseptic and astringent properties
finishing up with a couple Parabens - commonly used preservatives which according to FDA are safe.

So as I can see Buff and Wash Gel contains a number of moisturizing, conditioning and astringent ingredients. A couple of astringents are responsible for the look of tighter pores. It definitely is quite mild and balancing. I could find only one ingredient that was mentioned by some sources to have surfactant properties (ability to “dissolve” oil and remove dirt from surfaces).

Experience:
Texture: very nice gel like with a less concentration of exfoliating particles than normally in scrubs
Smell: extremely light natural herbal smell, you just feel like inhaling it over and over again (which is actually great to improve blood circulation in the skin)

I use very small amount and massage the Buff and Wash Gel gel onto skin with light circular movement without using to much pressure. (while doing it, enjoy the light and fresh smell) Then I remove it with plenty of water. I like the effect very much: Sisley’s Buff and Wash Gel makes the skin look stimulated, energized, bright and more radiant, pores are tighter and less visible. Skin feels clean and comfortable without any feeling of tightness.

I think Sisley’s Buff and Wash Gel is an amazing product because it actually combines the properties of a washing gel, mechanical exfoliator and a toner. In addition to all this, it is suitable for every-day use!
The only remark I would make is that when I would wash it off with water, no mater how much I try I would still often feel some particles on my skin when applying my moisturizer. However I consider it as a very small discomfort.

Sisley recommends this products for all skin types. I would especially recommend it for those who have dull tired complexion, uneven skin tone due to the slowed down cell turnover, those with oily/ medium oily skin types with visible enlarged pores. Note, those who are cuperose and redness prone should be extremely careful about every-day scrubs. Even though these products are mild, they can potentially worsen cuperose and irritation.

Price Time:
Price can range from 60 to 80$. It is a bit high for a daily use product but the effect can be worth it.

Reviews on other Sisley's Skin Care Products:
All Day All Year
Sisleya Radiance Anti-Aging Concentrate

You can get more information about Sisley product range and Buff and Wash Gel, in particular, as well as shop for Sisley's Beauty Products at Sisley Cosmetics on Squidoo

Beauty Talk: Socialite’s Survival Guide to Beautiful Skin Continued

In the First Partof the Guide we were dealing with the-morning-after-symptoms: puffiness, eye bags, red blotches and irritation. This part is dedicated to tips on how you can get energy back into your skin and your body, boost your skin’s radiance and prepare your complexion for another night out.

ENERGY KICK

To get more energy into your under-slept and over-partied body, try drinking a Vitamin C rich fresh juice. Orange, kiwi, blackberry or mango juice will make you feel recharged. You can also take a Vitamin C supplement but be careful not to overdo it, so that you don’t end up with red eyes from allergy.

To energize your body Harper’s Bazar recommends to “oxygenate” it. Try Dr.Andrew Weil’s Stimulating Breath exercise “Inhale and exhale rapidly through your nose, keeping your mouth closed. Keep the breath short – three in-and-outs in one second – and noisy.” (Harper’s Bazar, Dec 07)

THE RADIANCE TEAM

Let’s revive your skin’s healthy complexion, give it a real wake up call. Here are some products you can consider for getting radiance and energy back into your skin.

Tonics:

La Mer Radiant Infusion – contains ionizing sea salts, marine extracts, and anti-oxidants. Energizes the skin, makes it look bright and refreshed, minimizes appearance of pores. My Experience: I enjoyed the light fluid texture and quick absorption of this product. Yes, you do see smoother and more radiant complexion immediately but results are better with continued use.

Fresh Lotus Water from Kenzoki – a fresh water mist has both soothing and stimulating properties. “Wakes up” dull tired skin and gives it radiance.

Serums and Moisturizers:

Prevent:

Midnight Secret from Guerlain was specially developed for those short nights. Guerlain calls this serum “oxygenating” and recommends applying a couple drops before you go to bed for your short after-party sleep. Guerlain promises that upon awakening your complexion will be bright and your skin will look “invigorated”.

Treat:

Sensai Silk 10 Seconds Awakening Essence from Kanebo gives you a brighter look, smoothes small lines, improves skin texture, provides extra protection from external stress.

Energizing Morning Cream from Clarins – “wakes up” your natural radiance, smoothes lines, moisturizes and is a good make-up base. Contains essential elements such as Zinc, Manganese, Magnesium, Calcium as well as natural extracts (Cashew, Ginseng, Hops, Jojoba) to protect from free radicals, stimulate and moisturize.

Masks:

Lancaster offers a Flash Mask and Scrub Range for an express beauty treatment with immediate effect. Consider Flash Nutrition or Flash Hydration Mask. The latter contains “refreshing Mediterranean algae”, squalane, shea butter and plankton extract. Lancaster promises “moisturized, plimped-up, smooth… radiant skin”.

Beauty in A Flash from Clarins gives your skin a rested smooth look, promotes radiant complexion. According to Clarins, “the ideal treatment before an evening out”. Contains Witch Hazel, Olive tree and Algae extracts. High on my priority list for the things to try out!

Express Flower Gel (hydrating, toning and firming mask) from Sisley contains a number of amazing ingredients such as Lily Flower and Iris Root extracts, Cabbage Rose water, Sesame Seed oil. The promise is a rested smooth look, moisturized skin and “an instant "lift"”

Garnier Stop Peel-off Vitamin C – gel mask with vitamin A and C. My Experience: This is one of my favorite beauty products. After application skin does look more radiant, smooth and bright. The only tricky thing is that it is a peel-off mask and it tends to stick and “hide”, so you might find a piece hanging from your eyebrow at a party.

Garnier Ultra Lift Mask –Cream-gel mask with Ginger Root extract, Soybean Protein, and Bitter Cherry extract. My Experience: This is another one of my favorites. Provides a lifting effect, smoothes and brightens your skin. I very often use it as a pre-party beauty treatment.

Force C Premium Instant Radiance Mask from Helena Rubenstein combines 3 forms of Vitamin C “to bring out radiance of dull, lackluster skin” in a flash. My Experience: I like the texture and the smell, the effect was good but not very prominent.

SHOW-TIME MINI-FACIAL

Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni resorts to a lymphatic-drainage minifacial to give catwalk models a radiant look just before the show. She recommends this facial for the morning but basically it is show-time prep facial. Here is how you do it: put moisturizer on your fingertips, “gently massage the pressure points along the tops of your brows, around the sockets, and across your cheeks. Fan out to the temples and work your way down your neck. Then repeat in circuit.” Takes minutes and gives you a brighter, more radiant and awake look. (Elle, US August 07)

DON'T FORGET PROTECTION

Make sure you apply a powerful antioxidant to protect your skin from smoke and stressful environmental factors at a bar or a club. There are several specially developed products you can consider. Clarins offers Expertise 3P Screen Mist which protects your skin against “Electromagnetic Waves & Urban Pollution”. You spray it over your skin after applying the usual skin care and makeup. The mist contains Rhodiola rosea, White tea and other extracts to build a protective barrier against “artificial electromagnetic waves”, “indoor and outdoor urban pollution.”

Another product with a similar idea is Ecological Compound from Sisley. It protects your skin “against environmental stresses (pollution, cigarette smoke, UV rays)”. In addition, it prepares your skin for the benefits of your usual skin care products, improves skin’s tone and suppleness.

CAMOUFLAGE TIREDNESS
If after all the efforts you still see signs of tiredness, you can strategically apply your makeup to erase the last traces of the night before. Here are some wonderful tricks featured in Elle (US July o7) and InStyle Magazine (US Dec 06):

Liven Up Your Complexion

* Add some color:
- apply a tiny bit of self-tanner to your face OR
- brush matte bronzing powder “over the high points of your face”
- avoid orangey shades (can reinforce sallowness) and shimmery powders (can look sweaty)
* Wear blush:
- go with warm colors, for example - peach or salmon cream blush.
*Erase the tired look and get an additional lifting effect:
-Makeup artist Jennifer Daranyi dusts Shu Uemura Peach 42 blush beneath the eyes and across the T-zone which “helps lift the area” (Elle, US July 07)
- Makeup artist Jo Strettell recommends “blending a luminizing concealer into the crease above the chin, between brows, on tear ducts, around nostrils and in the laugh lines above the mouth” to eliminate the shadows and get a rested look. (InStyle, US Dec 06)

“Open-up” Your Eyes:
* Get an arch:
- give your eyebrows a tweeze and a brush. Creating a nice arch will make you look more awake and bring attention to your eyes
* Curl:
- to get a brighter, more prominent and more open eye, curl your lashes as close to lash line as possible, then curl again in the middle. Recommended by makeup artist Troy Surratt (InStyle, US Dec 06)
* Offset redness:
- line inner eye rims with a light nude eye pencil to offset redness
* Go with warm colors:
- wear warm brown eye shadows to wake up your eyes
-“Avoid smoky eyes when you are tired,” recommends makeup artist William Murphy

Add Color Back to Lips:
- To disguise pale chapped lips apply gloss with plenty of pigment instead of a lipstick. “Bright pink is an instant pick-me-up.” recommends makeup artist Mally Roncal (InStyle, US Dec 06)

HELPERS IN YOUR PURSE

Help your skin to look fresh, radiant and smooth through the whole night out. Here are some products you can take to a party for a quick touch up.
Midnight Star from Guerlain. This product comes in small capsules. You can just slip one into your bag for an express beauty treatment. It also provides powerful protection against free radicals. Can be applied over makeup.
Super Aqua-Day Cooling Facial Stick from Guerlain can be applied over make up for a refreshed look and sensation
Moisture Surge Face Spray from Clinique refreshes and moisturizes
Vichy Thermal SPA Water Spray provides soothing and refreshing effect.

PARTY TIPS

So that you don’t have to deal with skin emergencies and headache in the morning follow a couple easy tips:

Try to keep to pure drinks. They cause a bit less problems than multi-coloured sugar and artificial flavors charged cocktails

If you cannot resist a cocktail, try to compromise by ordering one with real juice rich in powerful antioxidant Vitamin C to balance out a bit of the damage. Cranberry, pomegranate, lemon, orange juices are recommened

Follow up each drink with a glass of water to counteract the dehydrating effect of alcohol

Don’t indulge into sushi and soya sauce – salt will cause you to retain a lot of water resulting in puffiness next morning.

If you are a smoker, seeing people smoking at parties and clubs may drive you to reach into your purse for that nicotine shot more often than usual.Try to pace yourself as much as you can, take a breath and a sip of water and keep enjoying the night. Smoking is BAD news for skin!

Oh, and don’t forget that anti-aging advice Dr.Brandt once gave at LiveWith Regis and Kelly Show: “Don’t use straws to drink your liquids… The pursing activity, when you use a straw, will cause wrinkles around your mouth.” Well, I think if you drink so many cocktails that you are starting to develop wrinkles around your lips, you might need to start worrying about something else but straws!

Read First Part of the Guide for tips on how to deal with the-morning-after-symptoms: relieve puffiness, get rid of eye bags, red blotches and sooth irritation.